You’re not just staying at a hotel—you’re entering a different era. That can feel magical or maddening, depending on your taste. Rooms are gorgeous but bathrooms are small. Restaurant décor feels like an afterthought, and non-guests have largely taken over the public spaces. The spa and the hotel’s Thai restaurant are across the river; easy to miss (but there is regular private boat service). The dress code is “strict” in theory but rarely enforced in practice. Still, with river views this good and service that folds your clothes at turn-down, you might just forgive the flaws—or at least be entertained by them.