I recently traveled to Tulum in search of Tulum’s best hotels. I was not disappointed. The design and architecture is unique and interesting. I stayed at some amazing places. But I kind of expected to be wowed by the design of the place. I wasn’t expecting incredible restaurants in Tulum, but that’s what I got.
If I look back over the past five years and ask: what were my top ten restaurant experiences, I’d have to say three were in Tulum. In a matter of one week. I’ve never had so many great restaurant experiences in such a short amount of time.
I’m not a food critic, but I’ve travelled all over the world and like to think that I have a fairly sophisticated palate. But I can’t prove it – and I won’t try and convince you.
Before I go on, I should define what I think “a great dining experience” is. To me it of course includes great food. But maybe here’s where I’m a bit different from many: a great dining experience also has to include great ambiance. I’m married to someone who puts a lot more emphasis on the food of a restaurant experience. In his mind, the food – including how it looks and is presented – would be weighted at roughly 90 percent. For me, it’s more like 55 percent food and 45 percent décor and ambience. It’s the whole package: food, décor, music, vibe, service. It’s all very subjective – I know.
I wish I could explain why Tulum has such a great restaurant scene. Maybe it’s because there are so many dining options to start with. The pure competitiveness of the place means that, to stand out, you’ve got to be good. Maybe it’s that restaurants have to be good to lure people out of their fancy hotels. Maybe there’s always been a creative culture here. It certainly started out as a much more mellow, down-to-earth, spiritual kind of place, with a lot of creatives participating in its growth. Maybe it’s all these things.
My two favorite dining experiences in Tulum
The first restaurant is Hartwood (www.hartwoodtulum.com). It’s hard to categorize the cuisine. It’s not Mexican but there are Mexican flavors. Similarly, it’s not French but there are European influences. They draw form local Mayan cuisine, but I don’t think it’s Mayan either. The food and the flavors are driven, I suspect, by what works best in their wood-fired grill; that’s what this restaurant is all about. It’s grilled seafood, meats, and fresh vegetables. Subtle and flavorful.
As for ambiance, you be the judge:
By the way, these guys get bonus points for being carbon neutral. That’s unusual for a restaurant.
I’d define ARCA (www.arcatulum.com) as a fusion Mexican restaurant with some very unique local flavors. I’m not enough of an expert to say I know Tulum, or Mayan, cooking well enough to define it much better than that. Although the restaurant says it’s Mexican, it’s not at all like the type of Mexican food you experience in many parts of Mexico – or outside Mexico for that matter. It’s unique.
Like Hartwood, open-fire cooking dominates. It’s a tapas experience: mostly small plates, with everything designed to be shared. It’s my favorite way of eating. Sharing small dishes means I get to try more things, and it just makes for a more expansive, interesting experience. Asian food: same deal.
And of course, there was great ambiance – good music, lighting, décor, open air. Take a look for yourself:
You can book by emailing these two restaurants up to one month in advance. The sooner the better, me thinks.
